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This is a tutorial for the Morgan pattern, a flat cap worked in one piece, designed by Anne Kuo Lukito and published in Knitty, Fall 2008.
*** Note (1/9/09): New photos of turning the crown and the peak added. ***
General
Why is the pattern gauge is different from the yarn label gauge? Why is gauge important in this pattern?
Gauge will vary from knitter to knitter, and yours may even vary throughout time. The printed gauge on a ball band is a general guideline that can vary from brand to brand, and may not always reflect the user’s gauge. For this particular pattern, I liked the resulting fabric that I got when I swatched with a US 6 needle versus a US 5 needle (which would have gotten me closer to the manufacturer’s printed gauge).
Swatching and checking both the stitch and row gauge is very important in this pattern. Make sure you wash and block your swatch too. Many knitters try to get away with just checking stitch gauge (me!), which may be okay in some patterns, but make sure you check the row gauge in this pattern too. The construction of the hat is such that if the gauge is off, it would significantly affect the size of the hat.
What types of yarn might be a good substitute?
Yarns with a blended fiber content in a nice balance of protein and cellulose fibers, as well as 100% wool or 100% soy should work well. I would not recommend using a yarn that is 100% cotton (too heavy).
If you cannot get The Fibre Co.’s Savannah yarns in your area, you can try Zitron Ecco (by an environmentally friendly company based in Germany), and Mission Falls 136.
My browser/imaging program seems to be resizing the peak template link. What’s the best way to print it?
To date (Sept. 13, 2008), I don’t have an answer for this yet. I’ve notified Knitty about the problem already. However, for sure, you should set your settings to print in landscape format, and make sure your image has the dimensions as illustrated in the diagram below. For information and tips on fitting, see the “Technical” section below.
One way to do this is to copy the template image from Knitty and manipulate the dimensions in your computer’s drawing program. It’ll could also work if you use Word or other publishing programs as well since most of them have a drawing component.
I want to do this for a child. How do i do it?
It’s on my long list of to-dos!
Home | Tutorial Index | Patterns
Technical
I don’t really like or enjoying counting stitches every round. Is there a way around it?
The flat-top crown increases were written out so that the increases needed to achieve the circular top do not stack and are invisible. The increases are done mathematically so that there are 4 stitches increased each round for 4 rounds, and then in every 5th round, 5 stitches are increased. If you are a more fluid knitter who does not enjoy counting every round and are pretty confident with your skills, then an alternative way to do it is to randomly disperse the increases according to the increase pattern throughout each round from Rounds 2 – 25. Then every once in a while check to make sure that your stitch count is on target.
How do I create a M1R? Is there a better way to increase?
Essentially any increase, whether it be the M1R or M1L that you use for a thumb gusset (created by lifting the bar between stitches), would work. The published pattern calls for an M1R. For a tutorial on how to work the bar lift M1R or M1L, go here.
My original intention in the pattern was to create as much of an invisible increase as possible. It is also a right leaning increase, and I have seen it written as M1, M1R, a lifted increase or right lifted increase. Knitting Help calls is a KRL (knit right loop). Whatever you call it, this is my preferred method for working Morgan, because it creates the MOST invisible increase. When writing and testing this pattern, I tested all the different increase methods, and really like this one the best. It is fairly easy to work.
First, insert your RH needle into the stitch below as if to knit it (left photo). Then, simply create and pull a knit stitch through that loop (right). Your increase is made by knitting into the stitch below. Continue knitting normally and working your pattern as instructed.
The arrow in the photo below shows where the invisible increase occurs. (click on photos to enlarge.)
I’m not sure I understand how to create the ridge at the end of the crown, before starting the sides. Where do I insert my needle?
The pattern reads: “The next round forms the ridge which outlines the top of the crown and gives structure to the upper part of the hat. The folded ridge is formed on the RS of the work. Next Round: Insert left needle into back loop of the st which is 3 rows below next st on needle; k this loop together with next st on needle for every st to end of round. 145 sts.”
For this part, you are inserting the left needle into the back (WS, into the purl bump) of the stitch 3 rows below, picking up the purl bump from the top down. Then you knit the picked-up stitch with the next regular stitch together. You will get a puckered bump on the RS of your work.
1. Identifying the stitch 3 rows below, aka the great-grandmother stitch:
2. Pick up the stitch 3 rows below (great-grandmother stitch) through the back loop and lift it onto the Left-hand needle by inserting the needle from top-down:
3. Now, knit together the lifted stitch with the next stitch, as you would if you were doing a k2tog:
4. This is what it will look like after the stitch is completed from the front (left) and the back (right):
I’m not sure I understand how to create the ridge at the start of working the peak. Where do I insert my needle?
The pattern reads: “In the next round, a ridge is formed which will help the peak to fold correctly when the hat is worn. The folded ridge is formed on the WS of the work. Next Round: K all sts on Needle 1; k2, [insert right needle into the front of the st which is 3 rows below next st on left needle, pick up the right leg of the st and place it on the left needle; k this loop together with next st on needle] 32 times, k2.”
For this part, you are inserting your needle to pick up the right leg (on the RS) of the stitch 3 rows below. (Once you get the hang of it, you can probably pick it up directly from your LH needle instead of with your RH needle and then transferring it to the LH needle.) Then, you knit the picked-up stitch with the next regular stitch together. You will get a puckered bump on the WS of your work.
1. Identify the stitch in the 3rd row below (great-grandmother stitch) as you did in step 1 in the question above.
2. Instead of picking up the back of the stitch as you did when turning the crown, lift up the right leg of the stitch with the Right-hand needle and transfer onto the Left-hand needle.
3. Then knit the lifted stitch and the next stitch together as if you were working a k2tog (left). After you complete it, it will look like the photo to the right.
Why should I block my hat before I insert the peak template?
You don’t have to, but it will make it easier to ensure that your template is inserted easily. For more instant gratification, I suggest pinning the hat to your ironing board and giving it, especially the peak area a few shots of steam from your iron.
I’m having a hard time getting the stabilizer into the peak pocket. Do you have any other tips for inserting and shaping the template and the peak?
Fit the stabilizer into the pocket first to check for fit. If it fits, then take out the stabilizer, Sew up one-third to half of the pocket, then slip the stabilizer into the opening. Sew the rest of the pocket closed. You can choose to sew at the peak seam or sew closer along the edge of the stabilizer.
You may find that even if you printed and cut the stabilizer exactly as specified, that it does not fit exactly. The reason for this is that even if you got gauge, there are minute differences in everyone’s knitting, so the template may be a smidge too big or too small. If the template seems a little big, then simply trim it a little. If it seems a little small, the difference should be negligible, or simply cut yours a little bigger.
What do you use for a stabilizer for the visor/bill/peak?
I recycle with things around the house. Here’s a tutorial about that.
https://craftydiversions.wordpress.com/tutorials-index/diy-tutorials/inserts-stabilizers/
Check out some of my patterns!
[…] you have any questions about Morgan, Anne has more information, including a tutorial and FAQ, on her blog, Crafty Diversions. You can also check out some of her other fabulous patterns and […]
I don’t have instructions for making the peak template print in other programs, but here’s how to do it in Photoshop, and why. This should apply to other programs.
The template is a .gif file. Gif files are 72 ppi resolution by nature. However, it looks like the image was created at 300 ppi. To make this work in Photoshop, open the image and select Image > Image Size… Uncheck the Resample image option and set the Resolution to 300 pixels per inch. You can then print it in Photoshop and it will be full size, matching the dimensions in the sample on this FAQ. It worked for me in either Landscape or Portrait orientation. It fit the page either way.
Other image editing software should have options similar to this, (most do, for sure,) but I can’t tell you where the options are.
Regarding the ridge info in this FAQ, I missed the part that said it was the ridge at the beginning of the peak you were talking about, so both of my ridges came out on the inside. (My next one will be perfect, though!) If you checked in here for more info on the ridge, please note that you pick up a different part of the loop depending on which ridge you are knitting.
Finally, I am at the part where you Shape the Back of Hat, and the instructions say to put the stitches on the needle and join the yarn. The first row looks to cover all the stitches, but when I join the yarn, it’s in the middle of the needle! Should I knit and pearl my way to the “beginning” of the row, or tink back?
I’m dumb… I just saw that instructions are here for both ridges. I must have been crazy from wool fumes. I missed that entirely.
No worries Gizank. They really should put warning labels on yarn. Those fiber fumes are dangerous — I mean, you can get so high that before you know it, you end up with 10+ skeins of yarn when you only went to the LYS to pick up a pair of Addi Turbos.
[…] (is really gray). Needles: Size five 16 inch circs. Notes: Go to the creator’s website for FAQs. Every question I had was already asked and answered. Also, The yarn I used is soft and lovely, […]
I have knit the crown, put in markers A and B and worked the W&T between the two markers leaving the remainder of the stitches on the needle. I have read this a million times and cannot figure out how to work wraps together as I’m always three stitches before the wrap on the previous row. Do you do the “wrap together at the beginning of the short tow? It doesn’t seem like it is possible at the end of the short row. Thanks. I love the hat and now that I found your web site will buy some other patterns from you. They are so different but I need to understand your “language”. Donna
Yes, you will have lots of W&T after the short row sections and they are all 3 sts apart as you have observed. You work the wraps in together after Row 14 of the short row shaping – that’s when you will happen across the wraps as you work, and subsequently picking up and working the wraps together.
Oh! This is exactly what I was going to ask. The pattern made it sound like I was supposed to W&T and also work the wraps during the same rows. Thank you for clarifying. It makes much more sense now.
No Problem! I am glad it worked out for you!! 🙂
I’m very confused about the visor part. after I knit all the stitches do I do follow the directions on needle one the replicate on needle two???
Hi Anne,
I’m making the Morgan and I’m on round 3 and I’ve already confused myself. At the end of round 2 you have 12 stitches. Then it looks like on round 3 you increase by 1 stitch 3 times but the pattern says you end up with 16 stitches at the end of the round which would be a 4 stitch increase. What am I missing here?
Thanks so much!
Hi! I wondering if you could explain to me on “how to” complete this part of a pattern that I am working on.
I have done this part: all 36 sts onto one ndl and also cast 36 sts onto other cir ndl. BUT how do I join them? Your tutorial on 2 cir did not Help!
It did explain how to join in the round if one already has co sts from an other ndl.
PEAK
Place first and last 27 sts of round on waste yarn, leaving center 36 sts on needle. Place all 36 sts on one needle.
CO 36 sts onto other circular needle; continuing from these sts, k center 36 sts of crown; join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist CO edge. 72 sts. Needle 1 is needle with newly CO sts, Needle 2 holds center sts of crown.
Has anyone ever felted this hat after it was done??
Not that I’m aware. You might want to check the projects page on Ravelry.
in the instructions to shape front of crown, for row 1 it says to K to 3 sts before marker B, W&T, do I W&T the next st ( which is the first of the 3 sts before the B marker) or do I W&T the last st before the 3 sts before marker B. I understand the W&T technique, just not sure which sts to W&T
You W&T the next upcoming stitch. So you knit until there are 3 sts before the marker on the RH needle, then you wrap the next upcoming st on the RH needle, so you have 2 unaffected/ unworked sts after completing the W&T.
thanks for the quick reply, I’m confused, I thought the marker would be on the LH needle, but I guess I will figure it out as I go along.. thanks for the pattern, it is amazing
Thank you!
My Hubby likes this hat but wants me to felt it for him. His head at the brim measures 24 1/2 inches any ideas on how to knit this so it can be then felted to fit?
My Hubby likes this hat but wants me to felt it for him. His head at the brim measures 24 1/2 inches any ideas on how to knit this so it can be then felted to fit?
I know some folks have experimented and felted it. However, unfortunately felting is not my forte and I would not now how to advise you appropriately on this.
I am confused with Row 15 instructions. At first I knit decreasing a stitch whenever I knit a wrap. Now I thhink it was only at the last wrap 3 sts before market B that I was supposed to decrease 2 st in total. Which is the proper way?